The picture
A panel, 85 by 60 cm, in the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica at the Palazzo Barberini, Rome: a young woman, seated, seen at half-length and three-quarter view turned to the left, naked to the waist, a transparent veil held against her belly by her left hand and her right hand laid, with spread fingers, across her left breast; a striped silk turban of blue and gold is wound round her dark hair, with a pearl pendant at the brow; on her left arm, a narrow blue band — an armlet — inscribed in gold RAPHAEL VRBINAS; behind her, dark foliage — a myrtle bush and a quince branch — against a dark ground; her face is oval, dark-eyed, with a faint smile, and she looks at the viewer. The picture has been called La Fornarina — "the baker's girl" — since the eighteenth century, after the legend of Raphael's mistress.
Identity and legend
Vasari says that Raphael loved a woman so much that his friends, to get him to work on the Farnesina, had her brought to live there; later tradition named her Margherita Luti, daughter of a baker (fornaio) from Siena living in Trastevere, and made her the model of the Velata, the Sistine Madonna, the Seggiola and this picture; a document of 1520 records a Margherita, daughter of Francesco Luti of Siena, entering a convent in Trastevere as a widow — four months after Raphael's death — and the romantics took her for the painter's abandoned love. Nothing connects the Barberini picture with her except the legend and the armlet with the painter's name, which has been read as a lover's possession, a signature, or a later addition; the picture was in the collection of the Countess of Santa Fiora in the sixteenth century, then in the Boncompagni and Barberini collections, and it entered the Galleria Nazionale in 1901 with the Barberini purchase. The sitter may be a courtesan, a mistress, a model, or an allegory; the picture may be a portrait, a Venus, or both.
Attribution
The attribution has been debated for a century. The picture was accepted as Raphael's until Morelli and others, finding the handling coarse beside the Velata, gave it to Giulio Romano; the twentieth century divided; the restoration of 2000 and the accompanying technical examination found beneath the dark background a landscape (painted out, perhaps by Raphael himself, perhaps later), a ring on the sitter's fourth finger painted over, and an underdrawing with the pentimenti of an original; the Barberini catalogues it as Raphael, with the possibility that it was finished after his death by Giulio. The consensus now is that it is Raphael's in conception and largely in execution, begun around 1518–20 and left unfinished at his death, with Giulio's hand in the background and perhaps the turban.
The picture itself
Whatever its status, the Fornarina is the most sensual picture Raphael painted and the one in which the Roman Madonna's type — the dark eyes, the oval face, the turban — is shown without the sanctity: a young woman, half-naked, touching her own breast, smiling slightly, with the painter's name on her arm. The gestures are Venus's — the hand to the breast and the veil to the lap are the Venus pudica of antique sculpture, and the myrtle and quince behind her are Venus's plants — so that the picture is a portrait in the guise of the goddess of love, or the goddess in the guise of a portrait; the armlet's inscription, in that reading, is the painter's claim to her or his signature on his Venus. The flesh is painted with a dry, smooth, luminous touch, the modelling soft; the veil is a scumble of white over the belly; the turban's stripes are laid in with a full brush; the pearl at the brow catches the light. The face, with its faint smile and direct look, is of the type of the Velata — the same woman, many have said; the same ideal, others — and its expression, neither coy nor bold, is the picture's strangeness: she is being looked at and she knows it, and she does not mind.
The ring
The restoration of 2000 revealed, under overpaint, a ring on the fourth finger of the left hand — a small band with a stone, of the kind given at betrothal — which some have read as evidence that the sitter was the painter's promised wife or secret bride (the Margherita of legend, married to him before his death and widowed), and the painting-out of the ring as the act of heirs who wished to hide the marriage. The reading is romantic and unprovable; the ring is there, and it was painted over, and no one knows by whom or why. It has given the picture a new life in the popular imagination, and a new reason for its fame.
Technique and condition
The panel is in the full oil of the late Roman years, with the flesh in thin, smooth layers over a warm ground and the background, as now seen, in a dark brown over the suppressed landscape; the turban and the foliage are broader than the flesh; the armlet's inscription is in gold over the blue. The restoration of 2000 cleaned the picture, left the background as it was (the landscape beneath being too fragmentary to recover) and stabilised the panel; the picture is in good condition, the flesh especially.
Reception
The Fornarina became, in the nineteenth century, the most famous woman in Raphael's work after the Sistine Virgin — the image of the painter's love, reproduced, engraved, and made the subject of Ingres's five versions of Raphael and the Fornarina (1814–40), in which the painter turns from his mistress on his knee to look at her portrait on the easel; the legend of the baker's daughter and the painter who died of love is a Romantic invention built on this panel, and it has never been dislodged. The twentieth century, more sceptical, treated the picture as an attribution problem and a Venus; the 2000 restoration and the 2020 exhibition in Rome — where it hung beside the Velata — restored it to the centre of attention, and the question of its sitter was argued again in front of both pictures by more people than have ever argued about a Raphael. It hangs in the Barberini's Raphael room, and it is, with the Transfiguration, the picture Rome's visitors most want to see.
What to look at
The armlet, and the name on it; the hand on the breast; the veil; the turban's pearl; the myrtle behind; the smile; the place on the fourth finger where the ring was; and the edge of the dark, where the landscape once was.
Ingres and the legend
The Fornarina's afterlife is inseparable from Ingres. Between 1814 and the 1840s he painted at least five versions of Raphael and the Fornarina — the painter seated with his mistress on his knee, turning from her to look at her portrait on the easel behind, the Barberini picture's pose and turban quoted exactly — and the image fixed, for the nineteenth century, the story of the artist torn between love and art, with this panel as its emblem. The legend grew: the baker's daughter of Trastevere, the house in Via di Santa Dorotea said to be hers, the painter's death of love, the convent, the ring; and the picture, which had been a Venus or a portrait, became a relic. The twentieth century's scepticism — Morelli's reattribution to Giulio, the doubts about the armlet — was in part a reaction to the cult; the 2000 restoration's findings (the ring, the landscape, the pentimenti) revived the romance on a technical basis, and the picture's popular fame now rests on both: it is a Raphael, and it is a mystery.
The Venus and the portrait
The scholarly question is whether the picture is a portrait at all. Its sources are Venus images — the Venus pudica's gestures, the myrtle and quince, the transparent veil — and its type is that of the Venetian half-length nudes (Titian's Flora, Palma's courtesans) that were reaching Rome in the 1510s; its armlet, with the painter's name, has parallels in Venetian pictures where the inscription identifies the artist as the woman's "maker" in a double sense. One reading makes it an allegory of painting — the painter's name on the body he has made — another a portrait of a courtesan in Venus's guise, another simply a portrait of a woman he loved, painted as the goddess. The picture's smile and its direct look, which no Venus has, and its jewelled turban, which no goddess wears, argue for a real woman; the gestures argue for the goddess; the answer, probably, is both — the Roman habit of portraying a lady as Venus, or Flora, or a saint, applied by the painter to a woman he knew. That the picture was left unfinished, and finished by Giulio, would explain its unevenness; that it was painted at all, in the last year of a life spent on Madonnas and popes, explains its fascination.
Technique, again
The restoration of 2000 published its findings in detail. The panel is poplar; the ground white; the underdrawing free, with changes in the position of the hands and the line of the shoulder; the flesh was painted first, in thin layers of a warm mid-tone with cooler half-lights, the highlights on the breast and shoulder applied with a dry brush; the veil was scumbled over the finished flesh; the turban, the armlet and the pearl were added over the flesh and hair; the landscape — trees, a sky — was painted behind the figure and then covered with the dark brown that now serves as ground, by a hand that may have been Raphael's (changing his mind) or Giulio's (finishing the picture) or a later owner's; the ring was painted and covered. The sequence is that of a picture worked on in stages and left, at some point, with a decision unmade; and it is the picture's unfinished quality, more than any legend, that makes it feel like a private thing.
What the picture became
The Fornarina is also the picture through which the modern public knows Raphael's name best after the Sistine — the naked woman with the painter's name on her arm has a currency that no altarpiece can match, and the Barberini's postcards sell her above everything else. That currency has its costs: the picture is read, by most who see it, as a love-token rather than as the sophisticated Venus-portrait it probably is, and the name on the armlet, which may be a signature of the most ordinary kind, is read as a brand. But it is also true that the picture invites the reading — the smile, the touch, the turban's intimacy — and that the painter, or his pupil, left it so. Of all Raphael's pictures it is the one in which the ideal and the erotic are least separable, and the one in which his art of relation — the look returned, the gesture that includes the viewer — is turned to its most private end. It was lent to Rome in 2020 and hung with the Velata; it is otherwise always in the Barberini, in a room of its own, where the crowd in front of it is, day after day, the largest in the palace. That, whatever the attribution, is a kind of verdict. The picture's scale — under a metre — surprises those who know it from reproduction; it is a cabinet picture, made to be looked at closely by one person at a time, which is how, for three centuries, it was. The crowds have changed that; the picture has not. A last word on the name. La Fornarina is an eighteenth-century label, like La Velata and La Gravida, and it has fixed the picture's identity as firmly as any title could; the Barberini's own inventories called it simply a portrait of a woman, and the painter, whatever he intended, did not call it anything. The reader should hold the legend and the picture apart, and look at the second.