The picture
Oil on canvas, 273 × 193.5 cm — Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna. The first portrait of the Queen by Vigée Le Brun, a full-length in the grand habit de cour — a white satin gown with panniers and gold embroidery, a rose in the hand, the crown on a cushion on a table, a column and a drapery — painted in 1778 for the Queen's mother, the Empress Maria Theresa, and sent to Vienna. The painter was twenty-three; the Queen twenty-two.
The commission
Maria Theresa had written to her daughter for years complaining of the portraits she received — 'they do not resemble you' — and the Queen's choice of the young Vigée Le Brun, recommended by the court's connoisseurs and by the Comte de Vaudreuil, was a bid to satisfy her. The painter records that the Empress was pleased; the Queen, who liked the painter, ordered more. The commission made the career: from 1778 the painter was the Queen's, and the Queen's image was the painter's principal product for eleven years.
The state portrait
The picture is the most formal Vigée Le Brun ever painted and the least characteristic: the Rigaud-Van Loo-Nattier formula of the state portrait — the full length, the column, the crown, the drapery, the stiff brocade — done by a painter whose gift was for the opposite. The face is hers: the Habsburg lip, the high forehead, the complexion that she praised above any she had seen ('so transparent that it allowed no shadow'), given the softness and the slight smile that the formal apparatus cannot quite suppress. The dress is a demonstration of the painter's capacity for silk — the panniers' satin, the embroidery, the lace — which she would, in the 1780s, abandon for muslin.
Versions
The composition was repeated: a version at Versailles (the 1783 Court Dress in this catalogue), one sent to Naples, and studio copies. The Vienna canvas is the prime, and it is the picture Maria Theresa hung.
History
Sent to Vienna in 1778; the Habsburg collection; the Kunsthistorisches Museum since its foundation. Lent to Paris for the 2015 retrospective, where it opened the Queen's room.
What to look at
The face against the apparatus; the satin; the rose; the crown on its cushion; the lace at the sleeves. Then compare the Queen en gaulle of 1783, which undid all of it.
The Queen at twenty-two
The face is worth a paragraph, because the painter's account of it is the best description of Marie Antoinette's appearance that survives: 'she was tall, admirably built, rather stout without being too much so; her arms were superb, her hands small and perfectly formed, her feet charming; she had the best walk of any woman in France... Her features were not regular; she had inherited the long narrow oval of her house, and her eyes were not large, almost blue, with a look at once intelligent and gentle; her nose was fine, her mouth not too large though the lips were rather full. But the most remarkable thing about her face was the splendour of her complexion.' The Vienna portrait gives the oval, the eyes, the full lower lip and the complexion, against the dress; it is the painter's first attempt at the face she would paint thirty times, and its slight stiffness is the stiffness of the occasion, not of the likeness.